Fall Preview 2021: Foodways
Books from around the world, and close to home.
Fall Cookbook Preview 2021: Foodways
Sahadi’s SAHADI’S! I have been looking forward to this book from the folks behind Brooklyn’s best resource for bulk foods and Middle Eastern ingredients. Sahadi’s culinary director and 4th generation co-owner Christine Sahadi Whelan offers 120 recipes that explore core ingredients and shows you what to do with them, from family favorites to some of the store’s popular offerings. Chronicle: September 7.
New from the author of Cooking for Artists, this book looks at the Greek food Mina Stone learned from her grandmother, taking its title from her insistence that any dish can be improved by adding those three ingredients (and salt). 80 recipes including “Syrian Bulgur and Yogurt with Brown Butter Pine Nuts; Persian Figs with Cardamom and Rosewater; Baby Lettuces with Toasted Sesame Seeds, Mint, and Meyer Lemon Yogurt; and Braised Chickpeas with Orange Zest and Garlic Bread Crumbs.” Harper Wave: September 21.
A collection of recipes Anne-Solenne Hatte learned from her grandmother, this book covers the foundations of Vietnamese home cooking. Starting with base recipes, Hatte also looks at regional specialties and her own variations on classics. (Originally published in French.) Rizzoli: September 28.
Focaccia, pesto, and some of the best views in Italy: that’s Liguria, here captured by Laurel Evans in her first English-language cookbook. With photography shot by her husband Emilio Scoti, this book is a deep-dive into one of the most fascinating regional cuisines in a country that’s, well, famous for fascinating regional cuisines. Rizzoli: September 28.
2018’s award-winning Slovenian cookbook, available in English for the first time, follows a road trip around the country, offering classic dishes and modern takes on each. Recipes include “soft red polenta with chanterelle sauce and sour cream; creamed Jerusalem artichoke soup with truffles, fried Jerusalem artichoke peels, olive oil, and red peppercorns; red deer fillet with juniper berry sauce, tarragon roll, red Swiss chard stems, celeriac, and cranberry jam; hazelnut ice cream with olive oil, dark chocolate, and fleur de sel” and much more. Skyhorse: October 5.
This is author Yasmin Newman’s follow-up to her 2019 book 7,000 Islands. Researched while living with her family in the Philippines during the the pandemic, Newman’s new book looks at traditional dishes as well as modern and vegetarian riffs on classics. Recipes include “wild mushroom sisig, golden turmeric and cassia bark rice, pork belly adobo, [and] glistening candied kalamansi cake.” Smith Street: October 5.
Istria, the peninsula at the top of the Adriatic sea, has been claimed by many countries and empires over the course of human history. Currently part of Croatia, Slovenia, and a bit of Italy, Istria cuisine draws influence from these countries, Austria, Hungary, and its own unique traditions and flavors. Recipes include “hearty grain soups and seafood, crepes piled high, and biscuits flavored with cinnamon.” Smith Street: October 5.
Hey it’s a TikTok cookbook! Joanne Lee Molinaro shares, you guessed it, vegan tips for making Korean food over at @thekoreanvegan—she also runs a blog of the same name. If you’ve been looking for the Korean food you love, minus the animal products you don’t, this is the book for you. Avery: October 12.
Another entry in the “and make it vegan” category, here’s Edgar Castrejón with a volume of vegan Mexican recipes. Inspired by the dishes his family makes, and drawing on Salvadoran and Colombian influences in addition to Mexican cuisine, he offers over 100 recipes for “slow-simmered soups and stews, empanadas, tacos, and quesadillas…vegan salsas, salads, and ceviches…horchata and spicy tamarind juice…followed by recipes for flan, cakes, and sweet empanadas.” Ten Speed: October 12.
A charming illustrated guide to the basics of Japanese food, this book holds the answers to such questions as “How to make sushi? What is the traditional method of making miso soup? How do you make a full Japanese meal? What are the most frequently cooked dishes in the izakaya? How do you garnish and pack a bento box?” As much a guide to eating in Japan as cooking your own food at home. Firefly: October 15.
This book explores the regional cuisine of India’s West Coast, featuring both vegetarian and vegan dishes from Gujarat (with love, of course). Recipes include “Garlic Burnt Rice, Smoky Eggplant Curry, Green Chickpea Salad, Spinach Chaat, Thin Layered Roti, Sapota Pudding, [and] Rose Sorbet.” With photography from Jonathan Lovekin (who shot Yotam Ottolenghi’s Plenty, among others), the book promises to be gorgeous, too. Pavillion: October 19.
I’ve been looking forward to this one! Chef and writer Zoe Adjonyoh shares the recipes of her London pop-up (also called Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen), serving Ghanian-inspired dishes like “Pan-Roasted Cod with Grains of Paradise, Nkruma (Okra) Tempura, Cubeb-Spiced Shortbread, and Coconut and Cassava Cake.” Voracious: October 19.
Chef and food educator Freddie Bitsoie here teams up with cookbook author James O. Fraioli to survey the state of indigenous cuisine across North America today. Recipes include “Chocolate Bison Chili, Prickly Pear Sweet Pork Chops, and Sumac Seared Trout with Onion and Bacon Sauce” and are a mix of traditional cooking and modern technique. With illustrations from artist Gabriella Trujillo. Abrams: October 19.
Another one I’ve been looking forward to for some time, here Bryant Terry features over 100 contributors from around the world—including Zoe Adjonyoh, Michael W. Twitty, Pierre Thiam, and many more—all writing about their experience of the African Diaspora through food. Expect not only recipes but essays and poems and artwork, as well. Also, this book launches Terry’s new imprint, so for the first time but certainly not the last: 4 Color Books: October 19.
Peruvian chef Virgilio Martínez takes on the food of about 20 countries in this whopper of a food bible covering all of Latin America. Countries covered include Argentina, Belize, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Ecuador, El Salvador, Guatemala, Guyana, Honduras, Mexico, Nicaragua, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Suriname, Uruguay, and Venezuela, and look at traditional and modern dishes alike. Phaidon: November 3.
While that subtitle is quite presumptuous, I was a big fan of Gaudry’s oversized fan-zine of a cookbook Let’s Eat France!, so I’m pretty pumped for this new offering. Four! Hundred! Pages! of Italian food goodness, including a guide to espresso, an ode to panettone, and instructions for cooking beans in a chianti bottle. And much, much more. Artisan: November 9.
Book 2 in James Oseland’s World Food series (book 1 was last year’s Mexico City), this time looking at Paris. While he does look at the classics, Osland’s book aims to show Parisian food as it stands currently, with global influences and modern techniques. Recipes include “Fresh Herb and Lemon Zest Dip, Salt-Roasted Pork with Preserved Lemon and Ginger, Lamb Tagine with Saffron and Olives, and Syrian Flatbread with Spicy Lamb Topping,” and, yes, steak frites and chocolate mousse. Ten Speed: November 9.
Chef Chris Cheung (of Brooklyn’s East Wind Snack Shop) grew up in New York’s Chinatown, and has worked in some of the swankiest kitchens in Manhattan. Here he looks at the foods of his youth, offering 50 recipes for “potstickers, spring rolls, wonton soup, General Tso's chicken, beef and broccoli, scallion pancakes, har gow (shrimp dumplings), chicken chow mein, salt-and-pepper shrimp, lobster Cantonese, egg cakes, congee” and his own signature dumplings. Skyhorse: November 23.
Vegan recipes from chefs across America’s Rust Belt, along with family stories, a guide to a vegan pantry, and much more. Recipes covered include “Polish pierogis, Detroit coney dogs, Hungarian paprikash, Slovak kolaches, Mexican conchas, West African peanut stew, German sauerkraut balls, Cincinnati chili, Slovenian fish fry, chitterings, and many more.” Belt Publishing: December 7.
Also Looking Forward To:
Egyptian Flavors: 50 Recipes by Dyna Eldaief. American University in Cairo Press: September 21.
Your Home Izakaya: Fun and Simple Recipes Inspired by the Drinking-and-Dining Dens of Japan by Tim Anderson. Hardie Grant: October 12.
Zen Vegan Food: Delicious Plant-based Recipes from a Zen Buddhist Monk by Koyu Iinuma. Tuttle: October 12.
¡Buen Provecho! Traditional Mexican Flavors from My Cocina to Yours by Ericka Sanchez. Familius: October 12.
The Ultimate Chicago Pizza Guide: A History of Squares & Slices in the Windy City by Steve Dolinsky. Northwestern University Press: October 15.
Lidia's a Pot, a Pan, and a Bowl: Simple Recipes for Perfect Meals by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Knopf: October 19.
Filipinx: Heritage Recipes from the Diaspora by Angela Dimayuga and Ligaya Mishan. Abrams: October 19.
Tarkari: Innovative Vegetarian and Vegan Indian Dishes with Heart and Soul by Rohit Ghai. Kyle: October 19.
Bayrut: The Cookbookby Hisham Assaad. Smith Street: October 19.
The Red Boat Fish Sauce Cookbook: Beloved Recipes from the Family Behind the Purest Fish Sauce by Cuong Pham with Tien Nguyen and Diep Tran. Mariner: October 26.
Thali: A Joyful Celebration of Indian Home Cookingby Maunika Gowardhan. Hardie Grant: October 26.
The Cajun Vegan Cookbook: A Modern Guide to Classic Cajun Cooking and Southern-Inspired Cuisineby Krimsey Lilleth. Blue Star Press: October 26.
The Italian Bakery: Step-by-Step Recipes with The Silver Spoon. Phaidon: October 27.
Treasures of the Mexican Table: Classic Recipes, Local Secrets by Pati Jinich. Mariner: November 7.
Simply Martín Berasategui: 100 Easy and Authentic Spanish Recipes by Martín Berasategui. Grupo Books: December 7.