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Fall Preview 2022: Foodways
Around the world, in a couple dozen cookbooks.
First up, please allow me to introduce a book I worked on! The Big Texas Cookbook from Texas Monthly is a collection of recipes from the TM archives, recipes from staffers, home cooks, restaurants, and, you know, me, and what they all have in common is TEXAS! I’m pretty proud of what we accomplished with this book. Must-try recipes: Laotian-Texas Chili, Brisket Guisada, Fideo Loco, King Ranch Casserole, Venison Parisa, Boudin Klobasnek, Jerk Shrimp & Grits. Let me know what you think okay! Harper Wave, November 8.
I also wanted to call special attention to Northern Soul by Twin Cities chef/ex Top Chefer Justin Sutherland. I was writing up his book like normal and went to his website to read his bio and learned that he was in a terrible boating accident over the 4th of July weekend. It seems like he will be okay but he was pretty badly injured; you can learn more and donate to a GoFundMe here. I’m sure it would also help cheer him if you checked out his book, which is a collection of recipes informed by soul food, Minnesota, and his Black and Asian background. The book sounds like a lot of fun, with a foreword by Kwame Onwuachi. Sending you best wishes in your recovery, Justin. Harvard Common Press, September 20.
38 recipes and 250 accompanying photographs: that’s what you get in a cookbook about one of the most beautiful countries in the world. And Plant-Based Himalaya by Babita Shrestha is just that, a cookbook about vegan dishes from Nepal. Momos, dals, curries, and more. Red Lightning Books, September 6.
One thing I miss about living in the upper Midwest? Friends with cabins. Get a taste of the north woods life in Stephanie Hansen’s True North Cabin Cookbook. Minnesota Historical Society Press, September 6.
An ode to Prince Edward Island, Canada’s Food Island boasts recipes and stories from the farmers and fishermen who live on the island. Oragnized by season, expect lobster rolls and strawberry galettes and roast turkeys stuffed with wild mushrooms and oysters. Figure 1, September 6.
Honey Cake & Latkes is a collection of recipes from survivors of the Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camps. The book is filled with 110 recipes along with pre- and post-war memories from their authors; there’s also a special section on foods for the Jewish holidays. Proceeds go to the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial Foundation. Melcher Media, September 6.
In The Vegan Chinese Kitchen, author Hannah Che explores the deep, long tradition of vegan dishes in Chinese cuisines—as the subtitle for the book declares, going back one thousand years. Here she shares the tradition of zhai cai, Chinese vegetarian cooking that goes back centuries, as well as her own modern dishes. Recipes include Scallion Pancakes, Corn Stir-fried with Peppers and Pine Nuts, Pea Shoots Braised in a Velvety Mushroom Broth Made with Sesame-oil Roux, Braised Winter Squash with Fermented Black Beans, Mapo Tofu, and much more. Clarkson Potter, September 13.
Chicago-based blogger and culinary instructor Heifa Odeh shares her recipes for Palestinian cuisine in Dine in Palestine. Dishes include Tomato and Lemon Flatbread, Harissa Pomegrante Molasses Salmon, Fig and Honey Pistachio Cake and much more. Page Street, September 13.
At the Table of La Fortezza looks at the foods of Lunigiana, a historic region of Italy at the northern end of Tuscany. Author Annette Joseph purchased and renovated medieval fortress La Fortezza in Lunigiana, and the book covers the foods she cooks there, inspired by local producers and farmers. Rizzoli, September 13.
Homage by ex-Top Chefer Chris Scott with Sarah Zorn is an autobiographical cookbook: Scott’s great-grandfather migrated to Pennsylvania after the Emancipation Proclamation was signed, and thus his family’s cooking is heavily influenced in Amish traditions. Scott calls it Amish soul food, and recipes in the book are influenced both by his childhood and his experiences as a professional chef. Dishes include Chicken Fried Steak with Sassafras Country Gravy, Charred Radicchio Salad with Roasted Grapes and Shaved Amish Cheddar, Yellow Tomato and Sorghum Chow-Chow, Johnnycakes with Apple Butter, Ham Hock and Bean Terrine, Dandelion Wine, Whoopie Pies, and if you’re not hungry by the end of that list I’m sorry, I can’t help you. Chronicle, September 20.
Chinese Homestyle by Maggie Zhu looks at vegan chinese cooking, with emphasis on homemade versions of takeout dishes as well regional specialties from Northern China, where Zhu grew up. Rock Point, September 20.
“Inspired by an archive of recipes from the author’s grandmother and great-grandmother,” Fresh Midwest by Maren Ellingboe King is, well, a fresh look at Midwestern classics. The author hails from St. Paul, Minnesota, and many of the recipes are inspired by her Scandinavian heritage. Recipes include Apple Gjetost Grilled Cheese, Lefse Pinwheels, Caraway Roast Chicken, Venison with Lingonberries and Juniper, Cardamom Stone Fruit Cobbler, and more. Midwest! Love it. Countryman, September 20.
Hey it’s the 30th anniversary of Marcella' Hazan’s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, and here’s a shiny new edition to celebrate! New forewords by Marcella’s husband Victor as weell as Lidia Bastianich. 500 classic Italian recipes! Knopf, September 20.
Simply Japanese has a not-so-simple origin story: author Maori Murota lives in France, and during the pandemic found it difficult to find Japanese pantry staples like udon, gyoza wrappers, and tsukemono. So she started making her own, and the results are in this book! (Don’t worry, you don’t have to make your own noodles to make the recipes, but it’s a nice option.) Also of note here are a number of vegan recipes. Harper Design, September 27.
Budmo!, a new book on Ukrainian cooking by Bay Area chef Anna Voloshyna, is named for the Ukrainian word for “cheers!” Cheers, then, to Voloshyna’s “classic Eastern European recipes with a modern, creative twist,” which sees traditional dishes turned vegetarian or brightened with herbs or topped with soft-cooked eggs. She also includes a few family recipes, like her grandmother’s roast duck. Worth it for the step-by-step kachapuri-shaping instruction/photos alone. Rizzoli, September 27.
The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook by Margarita Carrillo Arronte is just that: all the flavors of Mexico, none of the meat. A big Phaidon number with 400 recipes to join their library of food bibles. Phaidon, September 28.
Speaking of Phaidon food bibles, here’s The British Cookbook by Ben Mervis. Looking for your meat pies and puddings? This book has ‘em, along with roasts, trifles, all manner of cakes and breads, and much more. Phaidon, September 28.
Ethiopian food is popular enough in this country that I am surprised you don’t see more Ethiopian cookbooks, but Luladey Moges is here to fix that with her new book Enebla (which means “let’s eat”). Moges learned to cook from generations of women in her family, and her cookbook shares traditional Ethiopian fare with an eye towards home cook practicality. Get ready for stews, tibs, breakfast scrambles, salads, vegetables, guides to making injera and Ethiopian-style coffee, and much more. Touchwood, October 4.
Foods and Flavors from Nepal is a gorgeous second offering from Jyoti Pathak, author of 2013’s Taste of Nepal. 185 recipes look at both traditional Nepali cuisine and modern iterations, including fusion dishes, street food, and more. Hippocrene, October 4.
GoodNESS would you look at that cover! Gorgeous. Here’s Sabrina Ghayour’s follow-up to her 2020 hit Persiana: Persiana Everyday. With an emphasis on “fuss-free” crowd pleasers, Ghayour offers big entree salads, one-pot meals, snacks, sweets, and more, all infused with the Persian flavors she’s known for. Aster, October 4.
London chef Cynthia Shanmugalingam explores the foods of her Sri Lankan heritage in Rambutan. This dishes in the book are a delicious combination of Javanese, Malay, Indian, Arab, Portuguese, Dutch and British flavors, which result in recipes like Sticky Chicken Buriani and Crunchy Fried Potatoes with Turmeric, Mango Fluff Pie, Milk Toffee, Lemongrass Lime Soda and boozy tea cocktails. Bloomsbury, October 11.
From Melbourne chef Hamed Allahyari (with Dani Valent) comes Salamati: Hamed’s Persian Kitchen, a collection of recipes from his hometown of Tehran as well as dishes he serves at his restaurant, SalamTea. This book also contains one of my favorite underused cookbook elements: MENUS! Think summer banquet, weekend barbecue, even brunch. More menus please! Nice photography from Armelle Habib. Interlink, October 11.
Gorgeous cover alert! Love the use of textiles here. Chef Rinku Dutt runs a Bengali food truck and pop-up in London, and her first cookbook, Kolkata, explores the food, history, and Dutt’s personal memories of that city. (If anyone wants to write a story for me on why all the exciting cookbooks coming out of London are being written by chefs with pop-ups, and particularly women, email me. I pay!) Smith Street, October 11.
What’s up South Texas!! In The Siete Table, find grain-free Mexican-American dishes from the Garzas, the family behind Siete Family Foods. Recipes include Migas!!! Chilaquiles! Shrimp Tostadas, Enchiladas Suizas, Barbacoa, Chiles Toreados, Salsa Cruda, and Passion Fruit Margaritas. You’ll also find some vegan recipes in here, including vegan chorizo and vegan churros. Harper Wave, October 18.
I know a lot of people are very excited for this one, and you know I love a rigorously researched cookbook: Diasporican, by Ilyanna Maisonet, is a good long look at the foods of Puerto Rico, their history and influences, Maisonet’s own family background, and of course recipes, many of which were handed down to the author from her grandmother and mother. Foreword by Michael W. Twitty. Ten Speed, October 18.
Mamacita by Andrea Pons is equal parts cookbook and immigration story—and in fact, Pons originally self-published the book and sold copies to help pay her family’s legal fees related to their immigration. This is a traditionally published and expanded version of that book, with all kinds of dishes inspired by Mexico, from Pons’ family to yours. Princeton Architectural Press, October 18.
Cooking with Nonna: Sunday Dinners with La Famiglia is popular YouTuber Rossella Rago’s third cookbook, this one focused on big family Sunday suppers. Not much info available on this title but one assumes there will be Sunday Sauce. Harper Horizon, October 18.
“I want to show the world that soul food is not monolithic,” says Food Network star Kardea Brown. Her first cookbook, The Way Home, specifically looks at the Gullah foods passed down to her through family from Wadmalaw Island in South Carolina. Recipes include traditional dishes and Brown’s own creations. And to her point about exploring the variety of traditions within soul food, it’s worth noting that this season we have books on soul food from South Carolina, Pennsylvania, Minnesota, and (next on this list) California. More please! Amistad, October 25.
And for some soul food from the West Coast, here’s chef Tanya Holland local, seasonal, thoroughly Californian cooking in Tanya Holland’s California Soul. Holland spotlights Black farmers and artisans throughout the book, and shares recipes like Collard Green Tabbouleh, Zucchini–Scallion Waffles with Toasted Pecan Romesco, Grilled Shrimp and Corn with Avocado White BBQ Sauce, Fried Chicken Paillards with Arugula and Pea Shoots Salad, Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake, and Honey Lavender Chess Pie. Doesn’t that all sound amazing? Ten Speed, October 25.
The pasta grannies are back THE PASTA GRANNIES ARE BACK. Look, the first Pasta Grannies book was just delightful, and I have high hopes for the second: Pasta Grannies: Comfort Cooking by Vicky Bennison. This one has QR codes that lead to video demos, so you can cook with the literal grannies. Let’s do grannies books but with all the foods and all the grannies, okay. Hardie Grant, October 25.
Excited for this one: First Generation by blogger Frankie Gaw looks at the foods he ate “growing up with feet in two worlds,” namely Taiwan and the suburban Midwest. Thus recipes look like Lap Cheong Corn Dogs, Honey-Mustard Glazed Taiwanese Popcorn Chicken, Stir-Fried Rice Cakes with Bolognese, Cincinnati Chili with Hand Pulled Noodles, Bao Egg and Soy Glazed Bacon Sandwich, and Lionshead Big Mac. Also, the colors in this book are incredible and seem to be loosely inspired by the copy of Pei Mei’s cookbook in the table of contents? (If I am wrong about that I apologize but if I am right about that I think it is VERY NEAT.) Ten Speed, October 25.
Another one I am very excited about! The Woks of Life from the Leung family behind the popular blog of the same name will teach you Chinese classics and modern dishes and everything in between. 100 recipes, 80 of which are new to the book. For those unfamiliar with the blog, here’s how it works: the mom, Judy, shares home cooking recipes while dad Bill, who grew up in a restaurant family, shares restauranty recipes. Daughters Sarah and Kaitlin cover easy weeknight vegetable-forward stuff. Their blog is my go-to for a lot of things (especially if another cookbook is confusing about a technique or ingredient), so I can’t wait to see what they do in print. Clarkson Potter, November 1.
Today in very niche cookbooks is Jul by Patrice Johnson, a look at Swedish-Midwestern Christmas traditions and, if my experience with such things is accurate, probably worth it for the cookie recipes alone. Minnesota Historical Society Press, November 1.
Let it snow, indeed: Snow Food by Swedish chef Lindor Wink covers food from the Alps intended to warm you up. Of course, here in Texas, we don’t get much snow, but I do love Alpine food. Maybe once it hits 40 or so I will dig into Wink’s recipes for soups, pastas, glühwein, and the like. (Also, warning, this book seems to contain a lot of skiing puns.) Hardie Grant, November 1.
78 recipes from 6 Tokyo restaurants in Tokyo Izakaya Cookbook. The izakayas in question are Kotaro, Ametsuchi, Shuko Takigiya, Shutei Zorome, Sakebozu, and Nihonshu-ya—recipes include Tofu with Spicy Cod Roe, Shabu Shabu with Pork and Daikon Radish, Chicken Wings with Miso Glaze, Japanese-Style Roast Beef with a Sweet and Spicy Sauce, Sauteed Pork with Whisky Butter, Zucchini and Onion with Tuna, and Meat and Coriander Gyoza Dumplings. Tuttle, November 1.
Originally published in French, Vegan Africa by Marie Kacouchia will be published in English this fall. 70 recipes from 13 different countries, including Peanut Hummus, Cassava Tabbouleh with Radishes and Herbs, Paprika-Spiced Plantain Chips, Sweet Potato and Ginger Loaf, Coconut Rice Pudding and Lemongrass Lemonade. Yum! The Experiment, November 8.
The Italian Cooking Course from Australian chef and restaurateur Katie Caldesi is a master class in Italian technique, ingredients, and recipes. 512 pages!!! Kyle, November 8.
Chinese-ish is a lovely illustrated volume from Rosheen Kaul and Joanna Hu, looking at Chinese food as cooked by two children of immigrants. This book has a lot to offer, but I do want to spotlight its sense of humor—a welcome rarity in cookbooks! Interlink, November 8.
All hail the first cookbook from The Pasta Queen, TikTok’s Nadia Caterina Munno (written with Katie Parla). Become pasta royalty yourself in 100 recipes, many of which are classics and some of which are Munno’s own creations. Gallery, November 8.
Another great cover on Motherland by London chef Melissa Thompson, which looks at 500 years of Jamaican food alongside 80 recipes. Classics and Thompson’s own dishes include Ginger Beer Prawns, Jerk Pork, Braised Oxtail, Ackee & Saltfish, and Peanut Punch. Interlink, December 6.
And finally, kosher dishes from Italy in Silvia Nacamulli’s Jewish Flavours of Italy. Here find dishes like pasta e fagioli, melanzane alla parmigiana, Carciofi alla Giudia (fried artichokes, my favorite), challah bread, and sarde in saor (Venetian sweet and sour sardines).