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Introducing the Cookbooks of September 2023
Bangers only, no skips.
Howdy cookbook fans!
And welcome to your September cookbook preview, which means it’s OFFICIAL FALL COOKBOOK SEASON, OFFICIALLY!
*bangs gong* *sets off roman candles* *rings a big bell* *cuts ribbon with comically large scissors* *plays yeah by usher featuring lil jon and ludacris*
Y’all this preview is three days late. Part of the reason is because I am currently in Brussels on “vacation” and jet lag is a pain in the butt. But part of it is because there are so, so, so, SO many cookbooks out this year. And as a one woman show, it took a long time to go through all of them!
At first I thought it was my imagination. But as I went through September releases, a little voice in the back of my head started to ask: didn’t this used to be easier? Like, a LOT easier?!
The little voice wasn’t crazy. I went back and looked at a few of the previews I did for Eater National back in the day: for example, in 2014, I featured 39 books. Not bad!
This month alone I’m featuring 39 books. And we still have 2.5 months of fall cookbook season to go. Are more cookbooks being published? Or is it that more INTERESTING cookbooks are being published? Either way, there’s a lot going on!
What this means: I am going to get much, much, much more selective about the books I feature in these previews. Only books I am TRULY excited about will make the cut. I’ve already cut out books that don’t have recipes in them (sorry food histories and memoirs, I love you) and next are the fandom cookbooks (unless it’s a very big deal, there are way too many of these to cover, and I figure if you’re part of a specific fandom, you’ll find them anyway). And it probably means a whole lot fewer cookbooks by influencers. Apologies if your book is not listed below, I’m sure it’s lovely.
THAT SAID!!!! The books below are books I am SO SO SO EXCITED ABOUT! Books that cover cuisines I’ve never seen covered in English before, books with fascinating concepts, books with exciting recipes, books with so much to teach you. Books that I can’t wait to get by grubby little hands on. Books YOU should be excited about!
Welcome to a new kind of fall cookbook season. It’s a lot more chill here (ok it’s still pretty unchill), and, I hope, a lot more delicious.
Here are the cookbooks of September 2023.
Today's issue of Stained Page News is brought to you by Hardie Grant North America and Slow Drinks: A Field Guide to Foraging and Fermenting Seasonal Sodas, Botanical Cocktails, and Country Wines by Danny Childs. Slow Drinks teaches home cooks, industry pros, homebrewers, and foragers how to transform botanical ingredients—whether foraged or purchased from the store—into incredibly unique beverages and cocktails. Pre-order today.
The Stained Page News September ‘23 Cookbook Preview
I’m always on the lookout for cookbooks on under-covered cuisines, and Afghan food is certainly one of those. And The Best of Afghan Cooking by food blogger Zaghuna S. Adel claims to be “the most comprehensive collection of authentic Afghan recipes published in English,” which sounds promising! Hippocrene, September 5.
The title of Mayylu! is a greeting you’ll hear in the mountains of Lebanon, which is the regional cuisine author Hana El-Hibri explores in this cookbook. The book promises “secrets of Lebanon's ancient culinary heritage [that] are published here for the first time,” which is exciting. (This is actually its US release, so technically they’ve been published in the UK already. ;) Gilgamesh, September 5.
I feel like we’re seeing more of cookbooks that tell immigration stories alongside recipes from multiple cuisines, which is intruiging: South of Somewhere is by Dale Gray, who grew up in South Africa, lived in South Korea for a long time, and then moved to Mississippi (so, the American South). Her recipes combine flavors from all three places. Simon Element, September 5.
Finch Bakery Disco Bakes and Party Cakes by sisters Lauren and Rachel Finch is full of gonzo bakes: stuff like a giant “hazelnut nutella ball” (aka a gigantic Ferrero Rocher), a cookie pie with a rainbow of white chocolate that’s only visible when you cut into it, a floral cake that is presented tipped on its side, and other advanced (and very fun!) baking recipes. DK, September 5.
The Complete Book of French Cooking is a whopping 544 pages of all things French food by Vincent Boué and Hubert Delorme, culinary teacher at the Lycée Hôtelier in La-Guerche-de-Bretagne and co-authors of several culinary reference books. 165 recipes for classics plus 9 recipes from the chefs of Michelin-starred restaurants, plus a whole bunch of technique.Flammarion, September 5.
Sara Calvosa Olson (Karuk) has written a cookbook exploring the various culinary traditions of indigenous Californians, and includes modern recipes—think acorn flour miso, wildflower spring rolls, pine pollen cacio e pepe, huckleberry gazpacho with smoked salmon, and on and on. It’s called Chími Nu’am, which means “Let’s eat!” in the Karuk language. Heyday, September 5.
Shabbat is a cookbook of, well, recipes for Shabbat from SPN-reader-favorite Adeena Sussman. You can look forward to recipes like Fig & Pomegranate Brisket, Bubbe's Extra-Crispy Potato Kugel, Moroccan Carrot Salad, Roasted Kohlrabi, Cherry & Feta Salad, Sweet & Tart Eggplant Salad, Amba (pickled mango spread), Tomato Jam, "Schug-a-churri (“a blend of Yemenite and South American condiments”), Lemon Black-Sesame Bundt Cake, Vegan Rice Pudding, and more! Avery, September 5.
LA baker Rebecca Grasley retired from a life of nursing only to move to the West Coast and open a pie shop called the Pie Hole. In Pie Is Messy (written with Willy Blackmore), she shares both old school pie recipes (apple, cherry, etc) and new school pie recipes (Candied Lemon Chess Pie, Drunken Plum Frangipane Tart, and Vegan Blackberry-Mango Galette). Also, dang, pie is messy. Ten Speed, September 5.
Dan Pelosi aka GrossyPelosi on Instagram (145k followers) is out with his first cookbook, called Let’s Eat!. 101 recipes that focus on his signature Italian American recipes, including “Wednesday Night” pastas for when you just need to get dinner on the table. Union Square, September 5.
File under concepts I haven’t seen before (although I am not Jewish and something like this may already exist, but it hasn’t come up in my 15 years of cookbook reporting): The Cook and the Rabbi is a book written by cookbook author Susan Simon and and rabbi Zoe B. Zak exploring recipes and stories tied to the Jewish holidays. I am getting birthday-present-for-mom vibes from it. Also I love the illustrations! Countryman, September 5.
Lunch! Noon is a cookbook full of midday recipes from Meike Peters. Liven up your work-from-home lunch with treats like Lime Mussels with Zucchini and Cilantro, Peach and Plum Caprese with Burrata, Rösti with Pistachio-Feta Dip, and more. Chronicle, September 5.
In The World Central Kitchen Cookbook, José Andrés and Sam Chapple-Sokol have compiled a cookbook full of dishes inspired by the countries where WCK has cooked for people. Dishes include Lahmajoun Flatbread from the organization’s time in Beirut, Ukrainian Borsch, and Chicken Chili Verde that was served to California firefighters. The book also includes recipes from chefs and famous supporters, including Michelle Obama and Meghan Markle (which means my google alerts will be flooded with Meghan news once they start doing promo sigh). Clarkson Potter, September 12.
Simple homemade pasta? Believe it: in Pasta Every Day, Meryl Feinstein shares how you can live the fresh pasta life without losing your entire mind. Voracious, September 12.
I am on the record as a RICE LOVER so obviously I am jazzed for New York chef JJ Johnson’s new book, The Simple Art of Rice (written with Danica Novgorodoff.) Rice recipes from around the world alongside technique and cultural history. Flatiron, September 12.
Jake Cohen is out with his follow-up to 2021’s bestselling Jew-ish: I Could Nosh, a collection of recipes inspired by his Jewish heritage, with Cohen’s own personal twists. Recipes include Latke Tartines, Everything Bagel Panzanella,
Pomegranate-Glazed Lamb Meatballs with Herby Israeli Couscous, Soupless Chicken Soup (?), Kugel Fries, Tzimmes Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting, Crispy Persian Rice Treats, and more. Harvest, September 12.
I watched the first season of Yellowstone and couldn’t quite handle it (sorry!!!) so I am not quite sure how this works, but: Gabriel “Gator” Guilbeau is somehow a chef, the set caterer, and a character on the show? And now he’s a cookbook author, serving recipes for western Americana in the officially official Yellowstone cookbook. Insight, September 12.
Emiko Davies is perhaps best known for her books on Italian cuisine, but in Gohan she dives into her Japanese heritage for a collection of Japanese home cooking recipes, along with a bit of memoir. The book seeks to show how simple and good Japanese food can be, with recipes like tamagonogohan (stir fried egg and rice), soba noodle soup, Japanese curry, yakisoba, and miso soup. Smith Street, September 12.
Who doesn’t love a good Mexican breakfast?! In ¡Buenos Días!, Ericka Sanchez with Nicole Presley present sweet and savory ways to start the day like huevos divorciados, chilaquiles, crepas con cajeta, and more. Familius, September 12.
Well lookee here, it’s a big old fashioned glossy fancy chef cookbook, from global media phenom Gordon Ramsay. It has three Michelin stars on the cover! The book focuses on Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, which the publishers copy calls “the jewel in Gordon's crown.” Expect lots of stark photography and very complicated recipes. Mobius, September 12.
Calling all fermentation nuts (it’s me, a fermentation nut): Ferment by Portland, Oregon chef Aaron Adams is a collection of vegan fermentation recipes and dishes that use them, named after his restaurant of the same name. The recipes are not your standard fermentations: there’s fermented seaweed, chickpea miso, koji beet reubens, and much more. Sasquatch, September 19.
Eater has a cookbook! As you perhaps know, I worked for Eater for a long time (and a long time ago), and so I can say I am thrilled for my former colleague and pal Hillary Dixler Canavan, who put together this collection of all star recipes from Eater-favorite restaurants across the country. Abrams, September 19.
This is a cool concept for a book: in The History of the World in Ten Dinners, food historian Victoria Flexner and chef Jay Reifel join forces to, well, explore the history of the world in ten dinners (and 100 recipes). The book covers Ancient Rome, 8th-10th century Baghdad, the 13th to 16th century Silk Road, Renaissance Italy, Tudor England, 8th to 15th century al-Andulas (Muslim-ruled Spain), The Great Circulation of the 14th to 17th centuries (this is a term I have never heard before and Google is useless, but I am guessing it has to do with European exploration and the culinary culture clashes that followed…? based on the dates, correct me in the comments if I am incorrect), 13th to 19th century Ethiopia, 17th and 18th century Versailles, and 19th century New York City. Rizzoli, September 19.
It has been so fascinating following Taiwan-based journalist Clarissa Wei on Twitter while she worked on Made in Taiwan. In this book, Wei “celebrates the island nation’s unique culinary identity—despite a refusal by the Chinese government to recognize its sovereignty” through recipes (written with Ivy Chen) like Peddler Noodles, Braised Minced Pork Belly, and Three-Cup Chicken. Simon Element, September 19.
Desi Kitchen is a book I was excited to see when it was released in the UK, so I am glad to see it getting a US release! Sarah Woods draws on her Punjabi and British heritage in this cookbook that traces South Asian migration patterns across the UK and the resulting regional specialties. Recipes include whole roast tandoori chicken dinner (Birmingham punjabis), neeps and tatties keema pie (Glaswegian Pakistanis), sticky mango chicken wings (Harrow's African Indians), fish tacos in thepla flatbread (Leicester's gujurati hindus), kottu roti (London's Sri Lankans), carrot and kale bhajis (Mancunian Bangladeshis), and Welsh rarebit with curry oil (Welsh bengalis). (I am not sure why some of those are capitalized and some are not; I am following the jacket copy’s lead. Let me know if they are wrong in the comments.) Michael Joseph, September 19.
For his latest cookbook, chef Pierre Thiam brings the flavors of West Africa into home kitchens with Simply West African. Full of easy weeknight recipes, including Chicken Yassa Tacos; Saucy Shrimp and Fonio Grits; Maman's Crispy Herb-Crusted Chicken; Blackened Salmon with Moyo Sauce, and more. Clarkson Potter, September 19.
Boston chef Karen Akunowicz, of Fox & the Knife and Bar Volpe, is out with her first solo book (her first was written with mentor Joanne Chang), Crave. The book is divided into cravable flavors and textures, which is clever, like crispy and crunchy, hearty and homey, or tangy and bright. Countryman, September 19.
For the Culture is an anthology-with-recipes that explores the ways Black women and femmes are changing food and hospitality today. Compiled by Klancy Miller, founder of the magazine of the same name, the book looks at storied culinary influences like Edna Lewis and Leah Chase, and features the figures shaping restaurants, cookbooks, agriculture, and food media today, like farmer Leah Penniman, chef Mashama Bailey, TV presenter and cookbook author Carla Hall, and many more. Harvest, September 19.
This Is Not a Recipe Book by Paris pastry chef Tal Spiegel does appear to have some recipes in it, but it’s more of like…an art book designed to get you to think about desserts differently? I don’t know, it looks cool. NHP, September 19.
Midwestern Food by Paul Fehribach is a history-with-recipes of the great Midwest, where believe it or not they eat more than jello salad. The book explores regional pizza and barbecue styles, of which there are many, hotdish, pawpaws, traditional pies and preserves, and more. University of Chicago Press, September 20.
The Secret of Cooking by Consider the Fork author Bee Wilson is just a chonk of a general cookery book at 432 pages. The book is quite literally comprised of Wilson’s cooking “secrets,” described as “ways of speeding cooking up or slowing it down, strategies for days when you are stretched for time, and other ideas for when you can luxuriate in kitchen therapy.” Plus 140 recipes. Norton, September 26.
This is definitely a topic I have not seen in a cookbook before: The Art of Extract Making by Paul and Jill Fulton covers the typically-commercial process of extract making, starting with vanilla and expanding to flavors like cocoa, caramel, coffee, ginger, and peach. Agate Surrey, September 26.
Another concept I’ve never seen before! In Holy Food: How Cults, Communes, and Religious Movements Influenced What We Eat, Christina Ward explores the definition of religious food very broadly, from mainstream religions to the far fringe, in order to look at how everything from sacred ancient rituals to holiday traditions to crackpot faith healers have influenced the grand project of American cuisine. FASCINATING! There are also recipes?! Process, September 26.
The Diner cookbook is here! The Diner cookbook is here! Andrew Tarlow’s Williamsburg diner car, where they scribble the ever-changing menu on the butcher paper tablecloths for every table, holds a special place in my heart. So I can’t wait to see what the book is like: and luckily it doesn’t seem to take itself too seriously, boasting a chapter called “Brooklyn: My Part in Its Downfall.” Written with Julia Gillard, Carolina Fidanza, and Becky Johnson. Ugh now I want to go to Diner. Ten Speed, September 26.
You know I love a high concept strategy cookbook, and this is the second one from A Dish for All Seasons author Kathryn Pauline. Piecemeal takes 20 components, including grilled corn, turkey meatballs, tzatziki, roasted grapes, and puts them together into meals that take 5+, 15+, or 30+ minutes to put together, for a grand total of 120 dishes. Which is kind of sort of how a lot of restaurants work? Anyway, get this if you have the what’s-for-dinner blues. Chronicle, September 26.
Yes, yes, yes, yes: more international fermentation books! A Beginner’s Guide to Japanese Fermentation begins with shio koji, amazake, nukazuke and three types of miso, and moves on to more complex fare like umeboshi, natto, sake lees, fermented ginger and kastsuobushi. There is a bit of a health focus—probiotics and whatnot—but I’ll allow it this once, for the topic. Tuttle, September 26.
Chili crisp, the spicy, tingly, crunchy, savory condiment from Chengdu, has taken the country by storm—in large part thanks to Jing Gao’s Fly by Jing brand. And now Gao has written The Book of Sichuan Chili Crisp, which shows you how to use it in recipes like Zhong Dumplings, Deviled Tea Eggs, Hongshao Carnitas Tacos, Fish Fragrant Crispy Eggplant, Spicy Scallion Oil Noodles, Chili Crisp Sundae with Fish Sauce Caramel Brittle, Poached Pear in Sichuan Pepper Syrup, Baijiu Negronis, and more. Ten Speed, September 26.
In Cooking My Way, the legend Jacques Pépin continues to do his thing: knock out French fare, adorned with his own watercolors, this time with an eye towards cooking economically. Harvest, September 26.
Prince Edward Island chef Michael Smith is out with his 11th cookbook, Farmhouse Vegetables. Recipes include things like kabocha squash and ancho cider broth with sage, pumpkin seed goat cheese pesto, and spicy roasted chickpeas; lentil soup with pea and mint fritters, and lentil sprouts; soba noodle bowl with golden tofu, garden peas, cinnamon basil, and miso carrot broth; basil ratatouille and swiss chard wraps with tomato marigold salsa; potato, leek, mushroom, and chicken skillet stew; and ice cream sandwiches with carrot cake cookies and parsnip ice cream. (Those all sound so good but have so many things in them!!!) Penguin Books Canada, September 26.
Okay Tiffani Thiessen I am listening! Most of the time celebrity cookbooks are just sort of general, or cooking for family recipes, or even some kind of health angle. But the former Saved by the Bell and Beverly Hills 90210 star has gone with a fun concept for her new book: Here We Go Again, written with Rachel Holtzman, is a leftovers cookbook designed to help you save money, prevent food waste, and cook with leftovers in mind so you don’t get sick of them on day two. Fun cover, good title. Into it! Worthy, September 26.
More Books I’m Excited About…
Cook It Up by Alex Guarnaschelli and Ava Clark. Clarkson Potter, September 5.
The Friendsgiving Cookbook by Taylor Vance. Rock Point, September 5.
Pickle & Ferment by Susan Crowther and Julie Fallone. Skyhorse, September 5.
Peter’s Baking Party by Peter Sawkins. Black & White, September 5.
Nixology by Elouise Anders. Smith Street Books, September 5.
Italy by Ingredient by Viola Buitoni. Rizzoli, September 5.
Sweet Little Cakes from Mrs. Zabar’s Bakeshop by Tracey Zabar. Rizzoli, September 5.
Georgia’s Cakes by Georgia Green. Pavillion, September 5.
How to Fall in Love with Tofu by Emma de Thouars. Smith Street Books, September 5.
Sweet Soulful Baking by Monique McLeod-Pelanco. Page Street, September 5.
Pizza Night by Deborah Kaloper. Smith Street, September 5.
Cali Baja Cuisine by Michael A. Gardiner. Rizzoli, September 5.
Wok On by Ching-He Huang. Kyle, September 5.
Every Night of the Week Veg by Lucy Tweed. Murdoch, September 5.
Scandinavian Gatherings by Melissa Bahen. Sasquatch, September 5.
The Plain Cake Appreciation Society by Tilly Pamment. Murdoch, September 5.
Bao Family Cookbook by Céline Chung. Interlink, September 5.
Cooking from Scratch for Teens by Lisa Burns. Page Street Kids, September 5.
Butchery: The Ultimate Guide to Butchery and Over 100 Recipes by Luis Robles and Vanessa Ceceña-Robles. Cider Mill Press, September 5.
Beat the Budget by Mimi Harrison. Ebury, September 8.
Madame Fromage’s Adventures in Cheese by Tenaya Darlington. Workman, September 12.
Comfort and Joy: Irresistible Pleasures from a Vegetarian Kitchen by Ravinder Bohgal. Bloomsbury, September 12.
Tacos A to Z by Ivy Manning. West Margin Press, September 12.
Cocina Mexicana by Adriana Cavita. Ryland Peters & Small, September 12.
Dragtails by Alice Wood and Greg Bailey. White Lion, September 12.
Festive Coffee Shop Drinks by Hannah Miles. Ryland Peters & Small, September 12.
Lebanon: The Cookbook by Liza and Ziad Asseily. Saqi, July 12.
The Thrifty Baker by Hermine Dossou. White Lion, September 12.
Pasta et Al by Alec Morris. Hardie Grant, September 12.
The Food of Sicily by Fabrizia Lanza and Guy Ambrosino. Artisan, September 12.
The Dinner Party by Martin Benn and Vicki Wild. Hardie Grant, September 12.
The Grazing Table by Natalie Thomson. Hamlyn, September 12.
The Butcher’s Table by Allie D’Andrea. Harvard Common Press, September 12.
The Vegan Middle Eastern Cookbook by Noha Elbadry-Cloud. Page Street, September 19.
Vegan Vietnamese by Helen Le. Rock Point, September 19.
The Preserving Garden by Jo Turner. Thames & Hudson, September 19.
Juniperlooza by Elouise Anders. Smith Street, September 19.
Every Season Is Soup Season by Shelly Westerhausen Worcel with Wyatt Worcel. Chronicle, September 19.
A New Way to Bake by Phiip Khoury. Hardie Grant, September 19th.
Big Yum: Supersized Cookies for Over-the-Top Cravings by Chloe Joy Sexton. Page Street, September 19.
30-Minute Meal Prep by Robin Miller. Sourcebooks, September 26.
Cooking on Fire by Eva Helbæk and Nicolai Tram. Gestalten, September 26.
Lidia’s From Our Family Table to Yours by Lydia Mattichio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Knopf, September 26.
Party Drinks by Rebecca Hubbell. Rock Point, September 26.
Thai Made Easy by Yui Miles. Quadrille, September 26.
Pistachio by Barbara Bryant and Georgeanne Brennan. Cameron, September 26.
Food with Spirit by Alicia Shevetone. Guadium, September 26.
A Man and His Kitchen by Matt Hranek. Artisan, September 26.
I will not be responding to “why isn’t my client’s book on this list” emails from publicists.
I will die on this hill: Michelin stars go to restaurants, not chefs. Even when it makes phrasing awkward.